Author: Philip Broussard
Pool Liner Coming Off: What To Do?
Both aesthetic and practical, your pool liner must always be in good condition. But what to do if the liner comes off? Focus on the reasons for this phenomenon, and the appropriate solutions.
Why is the liner peeling off the walls of the pool?
In the bottom of the basin, in the corners, or quite simply on the walls, the liner sometimes comes off the basin’s walls. Several problems can be at the origin of this phenomenon:
- Water has infiltrated between the walls of the basin and the liner. This infiltration can be due to several things: a water level that is regularly too high, a leak or a hole in the liner, etc.
- As the pool liner ages, it stiffens. And when the pool liner is no longer as flexible, it peels off and detaches from the pool’s walls.
What if the pool liner comes off?
First and foremost, it is important to find the source of the problem. This will allow you to better repair your pool liner. When the problem has been identified, several possibilities are available to you:
If water has infiltrated between the walls and the liner of the swimming pool, the first solution consists of sucking this water. To do this, it is recommended to call a swimming pool professional.
- Infiltration may be due to a lack of tightness between the liner and the pool copings. In this case, we recommend siliconizing (in other words, to place a gasket) between the liner and the copings (or to replace a worn gasket).
- If there is a leak in the liner, you can either repair it with a liner repair kit or replace it.
- A liner has an average lifespan of 10 years. It is therefore recommended to change it every 10 years. To do this, we recommend calling in a professional (especially for in-ground pools).
In any case, we recommend calling in a pool specialist. Because of the detachment of the liner is due to greater damage, he will be able to identify them. On the other hand, he is the most qualified person to repair your pool liner.…
Main Sources of Pool Leaks and Their Repairs
To find the point (s) of origin, it is necessary to proceed by elimination. To repair something broken, you have to isolate the possible causes to go back to the fault’s origin.
Seals and fittings are always the first things to check. Most leaks come from leaks in the swimming pool’s hydraulic network: connections between an equipment in the technical room, at the parts to be sealed (easily visible on above-ground pools), T valves on the pipes.
Look first at the technical room connections, at the joints between the components: joints between pipes, pump, filter block, etc.
These are often worn leaks linked to the numerous closing / opening operations of the valves, vibrations of the filtration pump, wintering / putting back into service operations.
The star seal of the multi-way valve is often the cause: it lets a trickle of water pass, draining directly to the sewer. To counter this phenomenon, installing a shut-off valve on the discharge pipe to the sewer is common. If necessary, this star seal must be checked by replacing it and greasing it (water-based silicone) if it has shifted or replaced if it is crushed, compressed, or too cracked.
If you notice any leaks or a slight flow at the seals:
- Stop the filtration system pump.
- Close the water inlet/outlet valves to avoid flooding the technical room, especially if it is located lower than the swimming pool (garage, underground, etc.).
- Empty the water from the pipes (multi-way valve in sewer position, for example).
- Disassemble and check the defective connections.
- If it is a crushed, compressed, or cracked gasket, it is wise to replace it.
- If not, you can add tow, Teflon, or silicone grease at the problematic joints.
- Once the repair has been made, it must be tested by restarting the pump.
Sealing Piece to Replace
The parts to be sealed are the other points to be checked: skimmers, delivery nozzles, broom plug, headlight niche stuffing box.
Whether because of frost or a slight movement of the ground, they can be sources of leaks. Poor pool maintenance can also be the cause.
In this case, proceed by elimination by letting the water level drop.
Another trick to checking the discharge nozzles is to plug them and mark the water level. If the level remains stable after 24/48 hours (excluding water evaporation), then the leak is at the nozzles.
The leak can also come from your staircase at the sealing flanges. Sometimes it is enough to tighten them to stop a water leak. The same goes for the non-return valve of the skimmers.
If the dye is sucked into a specific location, you have located the location of the leak.
The repair will then replace the defective part or remake a seal using a waterproof sealant or special cement.
Sometimes the leak is at the bottom of the tank of one of the skimmers. To check this point, lower the water level below the skimmers and wait 24 hours. If one of the skimmers is empty, then the leak is here.
Be careful if you buy a detection kit.
There are different ranges at varying prices, some with questionable effectiveness. Take advice from a specialist store or knowledgeable people!
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