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Overhaul Of A Concrete Pool

When constructing a concrete pool, all stages and nuances must be taken into account; otherwise, the life of the pool is sharply reduced. And after the winter period, you unexpectedly find leaks, poor thermal insulation and thermoregulation, deformation of the pool bowl, a departure from the inner surface of finishing materials, and so on. After 6-7 years, one way or another, microcracks may appear in the bowl of the concrete pool, and repairs are simply necessary.

Need a concrete pool renovation? Find out how best to repair a concrete pool yourself.

Causes and Effects

By the end of the swimming season, it was already noticed how the water was leaking, and the volumes were getting smaller and smaller. The reasons may be:

  1. Poor waterproofing,
  2. Bad preservation for the winter,
  3. Poor insulation,
  4. Incorrect installation of embedded materials: pipes, nozzles, skimmers, etc.

To prepare a concrete pool for the summer season, you need:

  1. Putty.
  2. Treat with waterproofing.
  3. Treat the walls with liquid glass.
  4. Treat with a primer – a moment or any other sealant.
  5. Close with tiles.
  6. Allow drying.
  7. Put a mosaic.

IMPORTANT! Concrete gains its grade strength in 28 days. During this period, it must be moisturized and protected from direct sunlight.

We iron the tiles with a roller so that the gaps between them are as small as possible. After the concrete dries up, we fill it with sealants – any, especially those that penetrate not only into cracks but also into the pores of materials. The tile must fit snugly against the walls, so you must constantly monitor it at a right angle so that there are no distortions or detachments from the walls of the concrete pool.

When the bottom of the pool is dry, you can start processing and repairing the walls of the concrete bowl:

  1. Remove all unnecessary layers with a trowel.
  2. We will plaster again.
  3. Let it dry.
  4. We saturate the walls with liquid glass or other sealants. Better to smear with two or even three layers.
  5. Rub the seams thoroughly.
  6. Allow drying.
  7. Paint over with acrylic or rubber paint.

Secondary Concreting

If a bowl made of concrete is badly destroyed, and the concrete just falls in pieces, then it is difficult to talk about some kind of cosmetic repair; it is better to pour concrete at least in those places that are most susceptible to destruction.

Use concrete that best meets the criteria:

  1. Water resistance.
  2. Frost resistance
  3. Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
  4. Immunity to external influences.

TIP! To ensure the pool bottom is of high strength, it is recommended to use special vibration devices when pouring the solution. This allows for better compaction of the mixture. After that, the solution should harden and stand for 7-10 days.

Pool Liner Coming Off: What To Do?

Both aesthetic and practical, your pool liner must always be in good condition. But what to do if the liner comes off? Focus on the reasons for this phenomenon, and the appropriate solutions.

Why is the liner peeling off the walls of the pool?

In the bottom of the basin, in the corners, or quite simply on the walls, the liner sometimes comes off the basin’s walls. Several problems can be at the origin of this phenomenon:

  • Water has infiltrated between the walls of the basin and the liner. This infiltration can be due to several things: a water level that is regularly too high, a leak or a hole in the liner, etc.
  • As the pool liner ages, it stiffens. And when the pool liner is no longer as flexible, it peels off and detaches from the pool’s walls.

What if the pool liner comes off?

First and foremost, it is important to find the source of the problem. This will allow you to better repair your pool liner. When the problem has been identified, several possibilities are available to you:

  • If water has infiltrated between the walls and the liner of the swimming pool, the first solution consists of sucking this water. To do this, it is recommended to call a swimming pool professional.
  • Infiltration may be due to a lack of tightness between the liner and the pool copings. In this case, we recommend siliconizing (in other words, to place a gasket) between the liner and the copings (or to replace a worn gasket).
  • If there is a leak in the liner, you can either repair it with a liner repair kit or replace it.
  • A liner has an average lifespan of 10 years. It is therefore recommended to change it every 10 years. To do this, we recommend calling in a professional (especially for in-ground pools).

In any case, we recommend calling in a pool specialist. Because of the detachment of the liner is due to greater damage, he will be able to identify them. On the other hand, he is the most qualified person to repair your pool liner.…

Main Sources of Pool Leaks and Their Repairs

To find the point (s) of origin, it is necessary to proceed by elimination. To repair something broken, you have to isolate the possible causes to go back to the fault’s origin.

Seals and fittings are always the first things to check. Most leaks come from leaks in the swimming pool’s hydraulic network: connections between an equipment in the technical room, at the parts to be sealed (easily visible on above-ground pools), T valves on the pipes.

Look first at the technical room connections, at the joints between the components: joints between pipes, pump, filter block, etc.

These are often worn leaks linked to the numerous closing / opening operations of the valves, vibrations of the filtration pump, wintering / putting back into service operations.

The star seal of the multi-way valve is often the cause: it lets a trickle of water pass, draining directly to the sewer. To counter this phenomenon, installing a shut-off valve on the discharge pipe to the sewer is common. If necessary, this star seal must be checked by replacing it and greasing it (water-based silicone) if it has shifted or replaced if it is crushed, compressed, or too cracked.

If you notice any leaks or a slight flow at the seals:

  • Stop the filtration system pump.
  • Close the water inlet/outlet valves to avoid flooding the technical room, especially if it is located lower than the swimming pool (garage, underground, etc.).
  • Empty the water from the pipes (multi-way valve in sewer position, for example).
  • Disassemble and check the defective connections.
  • If it is a crushed, compressed, or cracked gasket, it is wise to replace it.
  • If not, you can add tow, Teflon, or silicone grease at the problematic joints.
  • Once the repair has been made, it must be tested by restarting the pump.

Sealing Piece to Replace

The parts to be sealed are the other points to be checked: skimmers, delivery nozzles, broom plug, headlight niche stuffing box.

Whether because of frost or a slight movement of the ground, they can be sources of leaks. Poor pool maintenance can also be the cause.

In this case, proceed by elimination by letting the water level drop.

Another trick to checking the discharge nozzles is to plug them and mark the water level. If the level remains stable after 24/48 hours (excluding water evaporation), then the leak is at the nozzles.

The leak can also come from your staircase at the sealing flanges. Sometimes it is enough to tighten them to stop a water leak. The same goes for the non-return valve of the skimmers.

If the dye is sucked into a specific location, you have located the location of the leak.

The repair will then replace the defective part or remake a seal using a waterproof sealant or special cement.

Sometimes the leak is at the bottom of the tank of one of the skimmers. To check this point, lower the water level below the skimmers and wait 24 hours. If one of the skimmers is empty, then the leak is here.

Be careful if you buy a detection kit.

There are different ranges at varying prices, some with questionable effectiveness. Take advice from a specialist store or knowledgeable people!