To find the point (s) of origin, it is necessary to proceed by elimination. To repair something broken, you have to isolate the possible causes to go back to the fault’s origin.
Seals and fittings are always the first things to check. Most leaks come from leaks in the swimming pool’s hydraulic network: connections between an equipment in the technical room, at the parts to be sealed (easily visible on above-ground pools), T valves on the pipes.
Look first at the technical room connections, at the joints between the components: joints between pipes, pump, filter block, etc.
These are often worn leaks linked to the numerous closing / opening operations of the valves, vibrations of the filtration pump, wintering / putting back into service operations.
The star seal of the multi-way valve is often the cause: it lets a trickle of water pass, draining directly to the sewer. To counter this phenomenon, installing a shut-off valve on the discharge pipe to the sewer is common. If necessary, this star seal must be checked by replacing it and greasing it (water-based silicone) if it has shifted or replaced if it is crushed, compressed, or too cracked.
If you notice any leaks or a slight flow at the seals:
- Stop the filtration system pump.
- Close the water inlet/outlet valves to avoid flooding the technical room, especially if it is located lower than the swimming pool (garage, underground, etc.).
- Empty the water from the pipes (multi-way valve in sewer position, for example).
- Disassemble and check the defective connections.
- If it is a crushed, compressed, or cracked gasket, it is wise to replace it.
- If not, you can add tow, Teflon, or silicone grease at the problematic joints.
- Once the repair has been made, it must be tested by restarting the pump.
Sealing Piece to Replace
The parts to be sealed are the other points to be checked: skimmers, delivery nozzles, broom plug, headlight niche stuffing box.
Whether because of frost or a slight movement of the ground, they can be sources of leaks. Poor pool maintenance can also be the cause.
In this case, proceed by elimination by letting the water level drop.
Another trick to checking the discharge nozzles is to plug them and mark the water level. If the level remains stable after 24/48 hours (excluding water evaporation), then the leak is at the nozzles.
The leak can also come from your staircase at the sealing flanges. Sometimes it is enough to tighten them to stop a water leak. The same goes for the non-return valve of the skimmers.
If the dye is sucked into a specific location, you have located the location of the leak.
The repair will then replace the defective part or remake a seal using a waterproof sealant or special cement.
Sometimes the leak is at the bottom of the tank of one of the skimmers. To check this point, lower the water level below the skimmers and wait 24 hours. If one of the skimmers is empty, then the leak is here.
Be careful if you buy a detection kit.
There are different ranges at varying prices, some with questionable effectiveness. Take advice from a specialist store or knowledgeable people!